Look For Photographic Emulsion Cleaner 4 Oz Spray @ Amazon.com
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When you take the time to clean your originals before you scan them, you’ll detect how much dust and debris you’ve removed. This little step will give you a better looking scans in the long-run. But, there’s a proper way to cleaning your originals. Here’s three steps on how to in the right manner clean your slides, negatives, and photos before you scan them: Step One: Do Not Use Liquid To Clean Slides, Negatives, Or Photos Avoid any sort of liquid, such as water, spray cleaners, even the oil from your finger tips. Once any sort of liquid lands on your slide or negative, it’ll either smear of the emulsion (the stuff used to “paint” your effigy on the film), or leave a smudge. Also, don’t blow on your negatives and photos. Believe me, no matter how careful you are, you might end up spitting on them. Step Two: Use Lint-Free Cloth To Gently Wipe The Surface You may get lint-free cloth from any eye-glass shop or photography store. I’d also go as far as getting lint-free gloves. If you do take place to touch the surface of a slide, the oils of your finger print won’t smudge the surface. Now, read this conservatively — it’s important. Gently wipe the surface, with a sweeping motion. If you press too hard, you might scratch the film. It’s very tempting to press down, but if you have any hard dust, you might scratch your slide or negative. If you’re not satisfied with the results, here’s galore more heavy responsibility options. Have you ever seen those tear shaped, puffers? I think they’re used to clean baby’s ears. Anyway, they’re a great way to puff air onto the surface of your original. Also, you may get compressed air employed to clean keyboards. Compressed air works the best, but after 1000 scans, it runs out. Step Three: Don’t Forget To Clean The Surface Of Your Scanner If you have a flat-bed scanner, you’ll need to clean the glass surface once in a while. What I do is, using a dissimilar lint-free cloth, I spray a little bit of eye-glass cleaner spray on the cloth. Remember, don’t use the same cloth to wipe your slides. And DO NOT spray the glass itself. Apply a few sprays on the cloth. I actually use the puffer to remove any dust and debris, then gently wipe the glass. Remember, don’t press too hard. I’ve put scratches on the glass because I pressed too hard. This is why I use the puffer firstborn — remove any hard dust that might scratch the glass. You’ll Get A Cleaner Looking Scan By This Simple Step This step is so simple, most persons skip it. And it does take extra time. But cleaning before you scan will give you a far better looking slide, negative, or photo scan. Why not eliminate as much debris and dust as you may before you scan it? Most helpful customer reviews 39 of 39 people found the following review helpful. 26 of 26 people found the following review helpful. I have had pretty good luck with it using it on old slides and transparencies. It doesn’t make them good as new (that would be impossible) but it does remove a lot of the mildew and fungus that would have made them totally useless. In the process, it saved me hours of retouching. On prints you have to have a gentle hand. Pressing too hard or using too much solution can cause further damage. If used correctly, you do get improvement. If you can get them fairly clean with a blower, a microfiber cloth, etc., I’d try that first. If there is recognizable fungus or mold, you have no choice. If it’s a historic or essential photo, I would photograph it with a good, sharp, macro lens prior to attempting to clean it. Sometimes the damage that is there is so deep that simply rubbing it with anything at all makes it worse. Once you, at least, have a good photograph of it, then attempt the cleaning very gently. This is an extra step and extra work, but it is totally safe. (This is also the way to go if you have photos printed on honeycomb or other textured papers since they don’t scan well). Once you use the product, you can scan the image. I would never put an image full of fungus, mold, etc. on a scanner and risk contaminating successive images, so cleaning first is a must. (A good scanner glass cleaner is also a must. I recommend the Kinetronics Glass Cleaning Kit for Flatbed Scanners, also available at Amazon.) Cleaning is not a substitute for restoration work, but it does take you to a point at which you can begin restoration work. I use Pec Pads that are lint free 4″x 4″ little pads. This sounds small, but it’s better for intricate work since you work on one area/problem at a time. Another thing: this is a pretty strong smelling solution. I have asthma, so I use it outdoors wearing a mask. Between the mask, the lint-free gloves to avoid getting fingerprints on the slide or print, the tweezers or wooden skewers to hold the slide to the prepared work surface, working outdoors, and the fear of doing more harm than good, this process is a little tense and difficult. But it is worth it. Anything that can possibly be rescued, has been rescued with this product. And, if you are gentle, don’t rub, and don’t press too hard, you (at least) don’t further damage those things that can’t be rescued with current technology. 20 of 20 people found the following review helpful. |
Amazing stuff
Does what it says
